Retrospective – A Look Back

Over the past seven weeks, I have walked, jogged, ran, and frolicked all over central Rome. No matter where I was going or what I was going to do, I always made it a point to observe the new foreign land which now engulfed me. Without my IPOD or cell phone, this was typically a very easy task, and most times it was more entertaining than any piece of technology I owned. I took notice of facial expressions, fashion, routines, food preferences, drinking behavior, dog walking, exercising, conversation, tourists, and piazzas alike. I wouldn’t trade some of the moments I experienced during this time period for the world. I learned so much about the Italian culture by just monitoring the daily life of Roma.

In particular, I researched three main ideas which helped me to allocate a greater deal of focus to specific concepts rather than merely gaining broad images of countless themes and places in Rome. My first theme was Italian café. I researched different kinds of café, the bars which contain these drinks, and towards the end I highlighted multiple famous and delicious coffee bars located around the city. Although it was interesting to learn about café, my favorite part was tasting all different kinds in various bars. The firsthand experience I gained along the way was priceless. Visiting the prestigious bars was definitely an eye-opening experience, but I learned just as much from frequently the local ones as well. This was by far my most rewarding and interesting theme.

My second theme, Roman water, was a much broader concept than café. I focused not only on some drinking fountains and aqueducts, but I also covered artwork and the way it influences markets and the human body. I learned valuable lessons about the quality and dedication of the ancient Romans and how meticulous they were about the tiniest details. Their aqueducts still supply the entire city with cold, fresh, clean drinking water. Not only is it refreshing, but it’s free – a rarity for the €2 water sold in the supermarcados. I also enjoyed observing how water was used in various sculptures and how without it, we could not take pleasure in some of the daily markets which provide us with fresh fruits, vegetables, and sauces.

Finally, my last concept was a place – The Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. I wanted to get to know the neighborhood I inhabited for about two months; what better way to do this than to physically visit places in this quaint section of Rome on a daily basis. Once I became familiar with the narrow, windy, and crowded cobblestone roads, it was easy to visit many different restaurants and shops. I literally could have popped into a new store or ristoranti every single day. My favorite spot to hang out in Trastevere though was by far the busy piazza which was alive and well during most days and nights. It was always filled with kids my age and with elderly men and women as well. If one of the latter would have told me that they were 200 years old, I would not have thought twice about believing the story. I do not mean this in a negative sense at all. The people just seemed so ahead of their time and knew everything about anything in their city. Trastevere is extremely historic and ancient, which to me is one of the most attractive things about it. It was like living in a flashback and everyday intrigued and entertained me. I hope that I did each of these three specific ideas justice; I strived to portray each as accurately and honestly as possible.

This is one of my favorite pictures that I took while abroad - St. Peter's Dome and the bridge at night.

Antico Caffé Greco – Finally!

On Monday morning, I failed at my first attempt to sit down and have a cup of the world famous Caffé Greco espresso. For some reason, it was closed on this day, so I decided to make the trip again the next day. It has taken me almost seven weeks to visit, since it is quite a trek from my apartment, but on Tuesday afternoon I entered Greco and stood in awe. It was everything I expected it to be and more. The entire café gave off a rich and prestigious aura, and I did not necessarily feel in the same league as most of the other patrons sitting under huge pictures on red velvet couches and chairs. Most of them were dressed to the nines with their Valentino and Yves saint Laurent bags taking up leg room underneath the tables. The majority of customers were Italian, with some Asian, and some tourists who looked out of place just like me. I walked up to the counter and was greeted by an extremely attractive barista who was donning a bright white long dress coat that buttoned from his neck to just below his waistline. He had on black pants, freshly pressed, and wore shoes that glimmered from Via Condotti to Via Trastevere.

Since it was already close to 3 PM and ungodly hot, I ordered a granita café con panna to cool down. My two friends, Hilary and Ilana, also ordered a lemon and café granita respectively. We sat on a nearby couch to wait for our glasses because I had read online that it was not encouraged to stand around at this particular bar. My eyes began to wander and soon landed on paintings of the Roman Forum and Colisseum, photographs of older gentlemen shaking hands, and many others of men and women who looked very dignified and important. Our granitas arrived in less than five minutes; the presentation was absolutely astounding. The three drinks sat on shiny silver serving trays and were decorated with whipped cream, coffee beans or lemon slices, and two thin circular cookies. I couldn’t wait to try my frozen espresso and soon realized just how great of a choice this was. It was the best cold drink I have experienced while in Rome, and the lemon was just as good as the café. Even though they cost €3 apiece, it was well worth every eurocent. I highly recommend this bar not only for the tasty drinks, but for the atmosphere and prestigious Roman attitude that accompanies it as well.

Sea Bass in Trastevere

It was a week before my time in Rome was up, and my roommate Hilary and I made a pact to experience at least four great restaurants before our departure back to the States. Monday night we researched some ristorantes strictly belonging to Trastevere. We found one called Antica - Hosteria PonteSisto directly across the Ponte Sisto (a bridge). It looked very homey and welcoming so we picked a cute table outside complete with a red checkered tablecloth, wine glasses, and oils. Our waiter was a gentle, old Italian man who spoke few words of English but responded genially to our pointing, graziés, and toothy smiles. We ordered the house white wine which came with a large bread basket. The wine tasted fresh – not too dry, but not too sweet either – and the bread bathed in their extra virgin olive oil was the perfect combination before our meals were served.

I decided to go big and order the baked sea bass. I was craving meat because my diet has been lacking protein, but I did not want a steak or pork chop. The fish was an ideal choice because it was light, yet filling, and absolutely delectable. The white meat was also seasoned to perfection, and the thin slices of potato stacked on top of it brought about a tasty marriage of flavors. I was very pleased with my selection and did not mind that the bill was a bit higher than what I was used to. Sometimes it is okay to treat yourself to a delightful meal even if it means splurging a bit in order to do so. After all, how many times will I be spending a summer in Rome?

Water: The Key to Life

Lately I have been observing and reflecting about the Roman water found in fountains and depicted in pictures and statues. As I walked through the huge morning market in Campo de’ Fiori the other morning though, I began to look at water in a completely different light. Water is the reason that the market was even possible in the first place. All of the fruit and vegetables for sale – the apples, grapes, cherries, carrots, lettuce, zucchini, oranges, lemons, limes, bananas, watermelon – are all dependent on good old H₂O. Not only that, the human body is made up of about 75% water by volume and without it for a prolonged period of time, we would surely die. Thankfully, this vital substance is available on pretty much any corner of the city. The public drinking fountains are so essential, especially in the summer, and I wish more cities provided these heavenly havens. Just when you think it cannot get much hotter, a drink from the ice cold spiket refreshes the body at least for the time being. Water literally surrounds us here in the Eternal City. Stop and take notice of all the different places it can be seen and also of every different place that it has an influence on. Without it, many beautiful pieces of artwork would not exist, not to mention we simply could not survive in its absence.

Orto Botanico

Last week some of my classmates and I decided to take a walk around our neighborhood, Trastevere, eventually ending up in the Botanical Gardens, also known as Orto Botanico, now owned by the Universita di Roma. After paying the €4 entrance fee, we entered a luscious green space filled with huge palm trees and gorgeous mansion-like buildings (probably used by the college students at the university).

On our way along the extensive and overgrown pathways, we observed different types of plant species growing in ponds, greenhouses, and even brushing against our legs. I was shocked when we strolled into an entire bamboo forest. I did not anticipate that the Roman climate was able to support bamboo or even all the palm trees scattered throughout the entire city. The grounds also held a huge rose garden situated on a hilly embankment. Although not all of the flowers were in bloom, the ones that were gave off a sweet aroma and filled the space with a serene vibe.

Later in the afternoon, we stumbled upon a large tree a bit off of the normal path which supported thick branches holding small, orange balls of fruit. I was immediately intrigued and began examining the pieces that had already fallen to the ground and lie strewn across a twenty foot radius of earth. They smelled like peaches, and so I decided to pick a ripe one from a lower branch and take a bite. Looking back, this was probably not one of my better decisions, yet I was thirsty and the “mini-peaches” smelled delicious. The first bite confirmed our prediction that the balls were indeed peaches or some sort of peach derivative. I had two more and then found the pathway back to the garden. Since it was beginning to get extremely humid, we called it a day and started back towards Trastevere. Taking an afternoon to explore the Botanical Gardens was a welcomed change from the small, muggy classroom back in the Piazza del Collegio Romano!

A Monday Morning Themed Walk - Cafes

Early Monday morning, six students including myself and one teaching assistant from Penn State’s CAS summer program set out on a memorable walk all around the northern part of central Rome. I had wanted to experience a few of the more famous and talked about cafés so we would be heading to three of these establishments to begin the first day of our last week. We all met at the foot of the Giordano Bruno statue in the center of Campo de’ Fiori’s morning market. After perusing some of the food and t-shirt stands, we set off towards our first stop, La Tazza d’Oro, located near the Pantheon. Most of us decided to try their world famous granita de caffé con pannas and we were not disappointed by any means. The mixture of the light whipped cream and iced espresso was delicious and certainly satisfying on such a hot morning.

We backtracked to the Via Corso after this and headed for Via Condotti. Once there, we all began posing next to expensive and sophisticated store fronts fully knowing that these shops contained items that were completely beyond our price range. It was still entertaining to imagine ourselves wearing some of the chic outfits and shoes though. We reached our second destination, the Antico Greco Caffé, only to discover that it was not open on this particular day. There was no sign posted and after my initial displeasure, I decided that I would just try back tomorrow after class.

On the way to our final destination, Piazza del Popolo, we swung by the Babuino talking statue on Via del Babuino and heard from a classmate about its rich history concerning the Italian people’s rights. Finally we had reached the piazza, and I pointed out the rivalry between the two cafes which faced each other in this space. On our left was the left-wing hot spot, Café Rosati, and on the right was the more conservative, Café Canova. The latter was definitely more crowded and filled with very properly dressed patrons. Still, we decided to stick to the original plan and try Rosati. I entered and ordered a cappuccino freddo which is a cappuccino served cold. It was refreshing and provided me with the boost I needed in order to walk around the city in such thick heat. This technically concluded the bar tour, but since the San Maria del Popolo church was so close to where we were, I decided to stroll in to check out the two Caravaggio’s which grace the small chapel located in the front on the left side of the altar. I was very excited that the church was actually open (I had tried on other occasion when it had been closed.) and was extremely intrigued as I gazed up at the Crucifixion of Saint Peter. It was very well done, and I was able to overhear a tour guide telling her group all about this famous work and why it is significant. One thing I learned was that the dirty feet of the men who are crucifying Peter are located in the very front of the painting; they are made to stand out. Back in the day, many were upset by this and considered the entire work blasphemous. Now it is known around the world and many come to visit it each year. It was packed when I viewed it around 11AM. Our walk exceeded my expectations, and I just wish we had more time to complete other themed walks around Rome.

Fonte Acqua Paola

On our way back to Trastevere from the Botanical Gardens the other day, we decided to get a better view of the city by climbing up Via Garibaldi. This is a long, steep road which leads to the enormous Fonte Acqua Paola, a fountain which contains three rapid spouts each spewing water as if a dam has just burst behind the entire structure. The aqueduct which feeds this fountain is called the Aqua Traiana (renamed the Acqua Paola later on). It was built in the 1^st century by Trajan.

The fountain used to be called “Il Fontanone”, or the big fountain, and was in the form of a triumphal arch made of white marble. Most of the material came from the Forum of Nerva. It also contains the Borghese coat of arms along with their eagle and dragon.

In 1690, Pope Alexander VIII commissioned Carlo Fontana to remodel the fountain. Fontana then created an enormous single basin which is what we saw last week. A small garden is hidden behind the structure and only a small portion can be seen from the front. The giant fountain is well worth the walk, especially when you turn around and experience the aerial view of the Eternal City spread out before you. Don’t forget your camera!

Information obtained from:

http://www.thais.it/citta_italiane/roma/fontane/piazze/Gianicolo/pag1.htm

Write a Letter to St. Francis

The other day while I was roaming around the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, I decided to enter the church in order to sit down and clear my head. After about ten minutes, I lifted my head and my eyes began to wander around different parts of the church. I noticed the three vibrant stain glass windows on the back wall, the beautiful golden ceiling, and a huge pile of letters (?). I walked over towards a life-sized statue of St. Francis and all around him were slips of paper, envelopes, and receipts in every color imaginable. Apparently, people visiting the church would write down their intentions on paper, any paper they had on them, and then proceeded to stick it in between the saint and the baby Jesus whom he is holding. When there was no longer any space available here, the intentions were dropped onto his feet or placed on the railing around him. This was such a rare sight – I had not yet seen anything like this in Rome, and I have been to a fair amount of churches. This church is already so intricate and inspiring, and this “statue of intentions” adds yet another element of intrigue to the Virgin Mary’s first church in Rome.

The Café Walking Tour: A Brief History

The typical Roman breakfast always includes some sort of espresso whether it be a shot, a cappuccino, a caffé latte, a caffé macchiato – the list goes on. Café is a staple in Rome. (The drink is accompanied by a cornetto (croissant) or some sort of other pastry.) In fact, over 14 billion cups of espresso per year are consumed here! Bars have been around since the 18^th century when Antico Caffé Greco decided to open their doors in order to serve the public. Today considered one of Rome’s most elegant bars, Caffé Greco is definitely a place where food and fashion converge. Since it is located on Via Condotti, most of its customers dress to impress. Back in the day, Caffé Greco played host to many famous patrons such as Berlioz , Buffalo Bill, Dickens, Goethe, Hawthorne, Humperdinck, Keats, Liszt, Lord Byron, Mendelssohn, Stendhal, Twain, Wagner, and Wells; Hans Christian Andersen lived upstairs and Rossini composed here… what a history! During this time period, coffee was known as the beverage of intellectuals. Please note upon arrival though that this is one of the few bars where one is encouraged to sit down. Every sip of espresso is supposed to be savored, and this is certainly a great atmosphere to do so.

The second stop along the tour, Caffé Rosati, was picked because it sports a 1922 Art Nouveau décor, and its rival café is located conveniently right across the piazza (Caffé Canova). Rosati is a bar known for its left-winged perspective, while Canova boasts about the presence of right-winged intellectuals. Political views aside though, Caffé Rosati is the more stylish of the two and usually at least one or two Ferraris or Maseratis can be found parked alongside of it. It also acts as an ice-cream parlor and ristorante with a candy store to boot.

Finally, the third bar on the tour, La Tazza d’Oro or The Cup of Gold, is said to serve the highest quality coffee beans which are imported directly from Brazil. It was founded in 1946 by Mario Fiocchetto who created the famous blend "La Regina dei Caffé". The recipe has been passed down from one generation to the next with each family improving the quality and taste. La Tazza d’Oro is known for its simple atmosphere and inexpensive cafés. This will come in handy since it is the last stop and the wallet may not feel as heavy as it did earlier in the morning.

Thank you for visiting these three cafés placed in chronological order and for walking “The Evolution of the Café” tour! Ciao!

Information obtained from: http://www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com/homeeng.htm; http://www.frommers.com/destinations/rome/N21766.html
Pictures obtained from: http://www.trifter.com/Practical-Travel/World-Cuisine/A-Trip-to-Caffe-Greco-in-Rome-Italy.67362
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gj-IH759g3Q/Rmm
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1438/540709138_c4b311054b.jpg

The Evolution of Café: A 90-Minute Walking Tour

In order to get a feel for how café (coffee/espresso) has emerged and evolved in Rome, an hour and a half walk was mapped out which will do just that. There are three main stops along this tour which vary according to age. The first, Antico Caffé Greco, was established in 1760 and is the oldest bar in Rome; the second stop, Caffé Rosati, in 1922; and the third, La Tazza d’Oro, in 1946 – a more modern space.

To start the walking tour, the easiest place to begin would be at the bottom of the Spanish Steps in the Piazza di Spagna (look for the half-sunken ship fountain made by Bernini).

Walk straight ahead onto Via Condotti and look for Antico Caffé Greco located at Via Condotti 86; it will be on the left-hand side.

When finished here, continue west on Via Condotti until you hit Via del Corso, a very busy and wide road, and make that right.

Within about 10-15 minutes, the Piazza del Popolo will appear right in front of you; Caffé Rosati is located at Piazza del Popolo 4-5.

After you are finished your drink, turn around and resume walking along Via del Corso, but southward this time.

You will run into the Piazza Colonna after about 20 minutes of brisk walking; look for Via Colonna Antonina which shoots off from the piazza around the obelisk.

This street will turn into Via Aquiro and then immediately into Piazza Capra nica; walk through this piazza and locate Via degli Orfani. La Tazza d’Oro will be on this road at #84.

Order their famous Brazilian brewed café and relax – this concludes the walking tour!

Catacombs of San Callisto (or Saint Callixtus)

Ever since 6^th grade when my teacher, Sister Laura, taught us about the Appian Way (the main road used in Rome during ancient times) I have wanted to visit it. I have also been intrigued by the catacombs which were ancient, underground burial sites used by Christians, Jews, and pagans alike. In order to satisfy both of these desires then, it would make sense to visit the Catacombs of San Callisto which are underneath part of the Appian Way. These catacombs were built near the end of the 2^nd century. One of the oldest parts is the crypt of Lucina, where the crypt of the Popes (16 popes total), Saint Cecilia (whose body was moved to her church in Trastevere in 820 CE), and the Sacraments are preserved. They take up about 90 acres and contain galleries about 12 miles long. The catacombs are four levels which total more than twenty meters in depth. These were serious burial grounds and are now considered the official cemetery of the Church of Rome. Anyone interested in the history of the Christians, Jews, or pagans would find this space extraordinarily interesting; I doubt an experience like this could be found anywhere else.

The catacombs are open to the public Thursday through Tuesday from 9AM to noon and then reopen from 2 to 5:30PM. It costs €5 for adults and €3 for children (ages 6-15). Children under the age of 5 are free, and the entire area is closed in February. Information taken from: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/rome/A20684.html
Picture taken from:
http://images.43things.com/place/217359s110.jpg

The Galleria Nazionale D’Arte Moderna

The Galleria Nazionale D’Arte Moderna was created in 1883 during which the newly unified Italy was establishing institutions and showing interest in the development of a “national art”. It contains the most important Italian collection of paintings and sculptures of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Works by artists belonging to most of the contemporary art movements are present; also neo-classicism, romanticism and Tuscan Macchiaoli impressionism can be found here as well. The mission of the galleria is to always represent "living art”. Some of its exhibits include works by Goya, Géricault, Delacroix, Blake, Renoir, Rossetti, Courbet, Van Gogh, Degas, Monet, Cezanne, Modigliani, Mondrian, Duchamp, de Chirico, Cara, Miró, Kandinsky and Klimt.

I would love to visit this art gallery because it differs from what we have been exposed to thus far in and around Rome. We have experienced ruins and ancient artwork, yet have not really seen any art which has been recently created. One of this museum’s missions is to revitalize interest in the great Italian artists of the 1950's and 1960's. I think everyone could use a break from Bernini and perhaps enjoy some Van Gogh or Monet instead. A change of scenery might further open your mind so that you are able to appreciate the older works more, or discover that you like the modern works better than the ruins. Either way, there is much to gain from visiting this gallery. It is open Tuesday through Sunday from 8:30AM to 7:30PM (closed Mondays); the last entry is 40 minutes before closing time.

The ticket prices are as follows: Full rate Exhibitions and Gallery €9,00 and Reduced rate Exhibitions and Gallery €7,00 (50% off for 18-25 year olds from the European Union and for state school teachers with permanent contracts). For more information, visit this website: http://www.gnam.beniculturali.it/index.php?en/1/home; picture taken from: http://static.flickr.com/119/266874522_28476423f9_o.jpg

Get to Know Your Local Barista!

During the first few weeks of class, whenever we were given a ten minute break to get cappuccino I wandered around the streets popping in and out of different cafés. By about the fourth week though, I decided to just pick one bar in order to become familiar with the barista and cashier. Dante’s Bar is located a few steps from our school, and the two old men behind the counter are extremely jovial and pleasant. Day after day I would stop in and before long they were grabbing my cappuccino before I even spoke the words. The lady who worked the cashier opened up to me as well, and we began to hold regular conversations. A few days ago, I entered the bar, drank my cappuccino, and made small talk with the bigger gentleman because it was not particularly crowded. As I began to pull out my wallet, he yelled something in Italian to the woman adding up my bill. She said, “prego” back to him and “ciao” to me. My java was on the house, and I had finally made some Italian friends! I thanked them both multiple times and ran out of the bar ecstatic. This is what a local bar is all about. It pays to pick one friendly café and get to know the people who frequent it. Dante’s is the place for me!

The Bonsai Reprieve

When we first entered Boys’ Town, we were met by two women who worked with the boys and translated Italian into English for us so we were able to understand the boys and some of the adults who worked in the town cantina.

The two women gave us a tour and one of the stops along the way was a garden that contained many rows of individual bonsai tree plants. There were many different kinds which varied in color, height, width, and shape. I had wondered if this was some type of science class or experiment so I asked one of the ladies what this garden was used for. She said that the bonsai trees were planted and cared for by the boys in their spare time. She said that they provided this space so that the boys could take on a hobby; the plants helped them to relax and to take their minds off of anything bothering them. I was immediately impressed by her response. How nice it would be to go out to this serene garden and work with nature for an afternoon! Boys’ Town provides so many activities and learning spaces for young boys. It is definitely a path leading to future successes as the boys grow up, and it was an inspiring place to visit; I wish them the best!

Boys' Town Trip

Boys’ Town is comprised of young, orphaned boys who live in apartment-like complexes. These are located in a hilly area southwest of Rome. Surrounding the plazas and gardens sit the residential villas, schools, laboratories, church, theatre, restaurant, bank, bazaar, and sports facilities. Close by there is also a farm which is used for educating the boys about agriculture and the environment.

The boys have also established their own currency, the Scudo, which is a coin that can be earned by completing the activities they are assigned when in school and outside of the classroom. These coins can then be used to buy toys and candy in the bazaar or deposited in the citizens’ bank. It can also be converted to Euro at a fixed rate of 1 Scudo = Euro 0,01.

As a class, we will be visiting Boys' Town on Friday, June 13, 2008. This is an incredible opportunity, and we are extremely thankful to the boys for giving us this unique glimpse into their personal lives.

Picture and information taken from:

http://www.citrag.it/eimg/eindex_09.jpg

The Unforgettable Phone Call

A few weeks ago, I received an email from PNC bank telling me that my account had been temporarily suspended. It had given me a number to call in order to get it reactivated – I could not do so online. Using a phone card from our apartment in Trastevere, I dialed the 1-888 number, but was promptly told by the operator that I could not use the card to call a collect number. This is when the idea of a lifetime came to me – just walk down the road and use the payphones near the piazza.

When the payphone rejected my phone card as well, I began to get annoyed. Fed up with the entire ordeal, I swiped my credit card and started dialing away. First, a lady from PNC answered and told me that she did not handle online accounts (this took approximately five minutes). Then I was transferred to a man who became confused that I was in Rome but lived in Pennsylvania (very hard concept to grasp, I know). After finally being transferred to another man who told me that my account was actually not suspended at all and was doing just fine, I hung up the phone quite pleased and went on my merry way.

A week or so later, my mom emailed me and asked about a few of the charges on the credit card bill. I could account for all but one of them and then finally to my horror realized what the mysterious charge had been. Turns out that my 12 minute (max) phone call cost me $109.00! She was not pleased but surprisingly did not seem mad about it. She told me not to make anymore collect calls and to “use my head”. One thing I will not be using anytime soon though is a payphone - don’t make the same mistake!

Terme di Nettuno

Ostia Antica is an ancient port located at the mouth of the Tiber River which served as a pivotal plot of coastline in the defense of the Roman Empire. As time went on though and the military battles subsided, Ostia became a “real town” and was used more so as a commercial port.

I discovered my favorite part of this town as I ascended up a long set of narrow stairs which overlooked Terme di Nettuno, or the Baths of Neptune. At the top, I was able to gaze down at the tremendous craftsmanship of several large mosaics built into the bath floors. They were black (in the foreground) and white (in the background) and were made of tiny, 1 inch x 1 inch (approximately) squares that depicted gods, fish, animals, games, and fights. The entire structure was built in the 2^nd century but has been renovated several times according to the informative signs nearby. They also said that the central characters in the main mosaic are Neptune and Amphitrite during their wedding ceremony. It is interesting to imagine people bathing here as the gods and fish looked up at them from below; also, it seems a bit disrespectful that dirt and waste was constantly flowing over the newlyweds. This site is not only aesthetically pleasing though, its main function was to cleanse the people by providing water and hot air which seeped up from the basement fires below the floor. These fires were attended to by slaves; their underground quarters are very well preserved to this day.

LAOCOÖN

Many stories and texts of old refer to Pliny the Elder’s intricate, marble sculpture depicting Laocoon, a Trojan priest, and his sons being attacked and killed by sea serpents sent by Poseidon, god of the sea. Laocoon was being punished by Poseidon for having intercourse with his wife on sacred ground. Laocoon was also responsible for warning the Trojans not to trust the sly Greeks who were renowned for their ability to deceive their enemies. The Greeks had created an enormous horse, which later became known as the Trojan horse. It held Greek soldiers who later ran out of the horse and surprised the Trojan army. The Greeks went on to win the war.

In addition, this sculpture has inspired many famous artists. Michelangelo was actually one of the first men called to help excavate the site when the statue was accidently discovered by a farmer on January 14, 1506. He became inspired by Pliny’s ability to portray the pain that the three men were experiencing.

On the Sistine Chapel ceiling, Michelangelo created many figures which resembled the contorted bodies of Laocoon and his sons. By placing them in “serpentinata” positions he was able to imitate Pliny’s famous work of art which once stood in the Emperor Titus’s palace. The sculpture and Chapel can both be found in the Vatican museums located in Rome. I highly suggest checking them out and make sure you have at least half a day to do so!

Information taken from: http://www.idcrome.org/laocoon.htm

Picture taken from: http://www.giotto.org/sb/ignudo.jpg

Four Facing Fountains

On my way back from Santa Maria della Vittoria church, I had to stop and drink from one of the four fountain statues located on the four corners of the intersection of Via XX Settembre and Via delle Quattro Fontane. The fountains represent two rivers, the Arno and Tiber, and two godly creatures, the goddess Diana and the god Juno. I am drinking from the Arno River (male laying with a tree) fountain which is actually built into one of the front walls belonging to San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane church. This church was designed by Francesco Borromini in 1634 and contains an appealing spiral staircase which leads down to the basement crypt. Borromini wanted to be buried here, but instead committed suicide and was buried in San Giovanni dei Fiorentini instead.

Some information taken from the Blue Guide, Rome (9^th Edition) by Somerset Norton.

Hadrian's Villa

In a small group of students including Toni Conti, Carley Bria, Cole Kitchen, and Courtney Marshall, along with the help of Mike Tumolo, we mapped out the route to get to Hadrian’s Villa.

Go to the Termini train station in Rome. Enter the upper part of the station and locate ticket machines. Search for the train to Tivoli. Once you get to Tivoli Station, locate local bus number 4 which you can take to Hadrian’s Villa. These directions can also be found in the Eyewitness Guide of Rome on page 269.

One of the most striking and best preserved parts of the Villa is the pool and an artificial grotto which were named Canopus Serapeum (the Emperor’s dining table). The Maritime Theater is a circular building within Ionic marble peristyle. This was a private retreat for the Emperor. A circular moat encloses an island where the theater is located. Finally, be sure to visit the Small and Great Thermae (baths) which are well preserved areas for public and private bathing. The small ones were used more privately for the emperors while the larger baths were used for visitors to the Villa. Check out this website for a number of virtual walk throughs of the Villa: http://www.italyguides.it/us/roma/hadrian_s_villa/hadrian_s_villa.htm
Picture taken from the Blue Guide, Rome (9th Edition) by Somerset Norton

Tavola Uomo (Table Man!)

This afternoon as I was walking home from Palazzo Barberini, I decided to take the less direct, scenic route through the narrow lanes of Trastevere. To my surprise it was not as crowded as it normally is, probably because it was around 4:30, but I was able to observe a very friendly Italian carpenter constructing a table. It was so random and out of the ordinary that I had to stop and stare for a moment. How many times do you witness a man creating an entire table right outside of his small store? It really gave that authentic, “Trasteveric” vibe that I have experienced practically every time I have wandered around the piazza. He did not speak English, but he nodded and smiled at me and then hastily returned to his carving. This was just another day at work for him, but for me it was yet another day of astonishment.

One of the largest and most complete Italian churches is located only about a block south of the Pantheon. When visiting Rome, be sure to stop in for at least a half hour and observe St. Catherine of Siena’s intricate tomb site (located in front of the church’s altar) and one of Michelangelo’s first pieces, The Risen Christ. If you are arriving at Stazione Termini located in the eastern part of center city, follow the directions below to arrive in Piazza Santa Maria sopra Minerva and enter one of the few examples of Gothic architecture in the Eternal City!

From the termini, situate yourself so that you are facing the Piazza dei Cinquecento and walk straight ahead until you reach V. le E. De Nicola onto which you will make the first left.

After about five blocks, make a right onto Via Agostino Depretris and walk until you hit the wide Via Nazionale onto which you will be making a left.

This will bring you into a square which holds the massive Mercati Traianei on your left and look for Via IV Novembre which will curve northward and to the right.

This street will eventually turn into Via C. Battisti, then Via Plebiscito, and finally the wide Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

Before you reach the Area Sacra on your left though near Chiesa del Gesu, one of two Jesuit churches in Rome, make a right onto Via dei Cestari and at the end of this street will stand the church slightly on the right (the Pantheon is down Via Palombella to the left; also, on the left of Chiesa del Gesu is the Palazzo Venezia). In case you are confused, look for Bernini’s obelisk of an elephant which rises to the sky in the middle of the piazza; this church is hard to miss!

Picture taken from: http://www.erboristeriaedaltro.com/camereciprobeb/chiesa%20santa%20maria%20sopra%20minerva%20roma.JPG

The Trek to il Caffe Sant' Eustachio

One of the best cafes in Rome is il Caffé Sant’ Eustachio located next to the church from which it has received its name. If you are visiting the city and you appreciate a delectable cup of espresso or cappuccino, you must visit this bar which has been raved about in newspapers like La Repubblica (written in Italy) and the New York Times (written in the United States). If you are arriving at Stazione Termini located in the eastern part of center city, follow the directions below to arrive in Piazza Sant’ Eustachio and quench your thirst at its eloquent café!

From the termini, situate yourself so that you are facing the Piazza dei Cinquecento and walk straight ahead until you reach V. le E. De Nicola onto which you will make your first left.

After about five blocks, make a right onto Via Agostino Depretris and walk until you hit the wide Via Nazionale onto which you will be making a left.

This will bring you into a square which holds the massive Mercati Traianei on your left and look for Via IV Novembre which will curve northward and to the right.

This street will eventually turn into Via C. Battisti, then Via Plebiscito, and finally the wide Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

After about four blocks with the Area Sacra on your left, make a right onto Via Monterone and you will be standing in the Piazza Caprettari in no time. The Piazza San Eustachio is a straight shot ahead and can be reached in under a minute’s time (the Pantheon lies to the right if you take the Via Palombella).

Look for the clearly marked Café Sant’ Eustachio directly ahead and observe what kind of people are sitting outside. This is typically a formal bar where some of the more prestigious Romans like to drink their morning lattes. Go into the café and order a cappuccino. Take notice that you are never able to see the hands of the baristas as they create your frothy cup because the recipe is kept a secret. The baristas are usually extremely nice and want to make you laugh, so go with the flow and relax. Enjoy one of the best cappuccinos made in Rome!

Picture taken from: http://www.dkimages.com/discover/previews/1422/11376972.JPG

Amsterdam Ambiance

I couldn’t believe my eyes when we walked into a cafe in Amsterdam which looked tiny from the outside but opened up into a beautiful breakfast bar area complete with every type of natural and organic drink you could ever imagine. It was comparable to the Panera restaurant chain in the United States, but with a refreshing twist. There were four girls in their twenties who walked around taking orders and serving all different types of fruit drinks. The breads, bagels, and pastries had all just been baked and sat on the counter piping hot. The smells were fresh and clean and we knew we had to sit down and try their “everything” bagels. Since it is near impossible to find these delightful circular snacks in Rome, we were all eager to dig in. I also ordered an iced coffee and did not expect much since I was not sure how it would be prepared. It came in a large glass, blended to perfection with the right amount of coffee and ice. It wasn’t watery or bitter, and it gave me the boost that I needed after a morning of exploring centre city.

Our bagels arrived promptly and went beyond any pre-conceived expectations that we had formed. They were warm and lightly toasted with the onion on the outside curled into brown half-moons. The sesame and poppy seeds added a subtle background kick, and the natural cream cheese on top united the flavors and completed the bite. Afterward, a hot mint tea was served with fresh sprigs of mint leaves seeping as you sipped. Our bagel obsession had finally been satiated (for a little bit anyways), and we departed the chic café ready to dodge local bike riders on our way to Anne Frank’s annex. Tot ziens!