LAOCOÖN

Many stories and texts of old refer to Pliny the Elder’s intricate, marble sculpture depicting Laocoon, a Trojan priest, and his sons being attacked and killed by sea serpents sent by Poseidon, god of the sea. Laocoon was being punished by Poseidon for having intercourse with his wife on sacred ground. Laocoon was also responsible for warning the Trojans not to trust the sly Greeks who were renowned for their ability to deceive their enemies. The Greeks had created an enormous horse, which later became known as the Trojan horse. It held Greek soldiers who later ran out of the horse and surprised the Trojan army. The Greeks went on to win the war.

In addition, this sculpture has inspired many famous artists. Michelangelo was actually one of the first men called to help excavate the site when the statue was accidently discovered by a farmer on January 14, 1506. He became inspired by Pliny’s ability to portray the pain that the three men were experiencing.

On the Sistine Chapel ceiling, Michelangelo created many figures which resembled the contorted bodies of Laocoon and his sons. By placing them in “serpentinata” positions he was able to imitate Pliny’s famous work of art which once stood in the Emperor Titus’s palace. The sculpture and Chapel can both be found in the Vatican museums located in Rome. I highly suggest checking them out and make sure you have at least half a day to do so!

Information taken from: http://www.idcrome.org/laocoon.htm

Picture taken from: http://www.giotto.org/sb/ignudo.jpg

Four Facing Fountains

On my way back from Santa Maria della Vittoria church, I had to stop and drink from one of the four fountain statues located on the four corners of the intersection of Via XX Settembre and Via delle Quattro Fontane. The fountains represent two rivers, the Arno and Tiber, and two godly creatures, the goddess Diana and the god Juno. I am drinking from the Arno River (male laying with a tree) fountain which is actually built into one of the front walls belonging to San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane church. This church was designed by Francesco Borromini in 1634 and contains an appealing spiral staircase which leads down to the basement crypt. Borromini wanted to be buried here, but instead committed suicide and was buried in San Giovanni dei Fiorentini instead.

Some information taken from the Blue Guide, Rome (9^th Edition) by Somerset Norton.

Hadrian's Villa

In a small group of students including Toni Conti, Carley Bria, Cole Kitchen, and Courtney Marshall, along with the help of Mike Tumolo, we mapped out the route to get to Hadrian’s Villa.

Go to the Termini train station in Rome. Enter the upper part of the station and locate ticket machines. Search for the train to Tivoli. Once you get to Tivoli Station, locate local bus number 4 which you can take to Hadrian’s Villa. These directions can also be found in the Eyewitness Guide of Rome on page 269.

One of the most striking and best preserved parts of the Villa is the pool and an artificial grotto which were named Canopus Serapeum (the Emperor’s dining table). The Maritime Theater is a circular building within Ionic marble peristyle. This was a private retreat for the Emperor. A circular moat encloses an island where the theater is located. Finally, be sure to visit the Small and Great Thermae (baths) which are well preserved areas for public and private bathing. The small ones were used more privately for the emperors while the larger baths were used for visitors to the Villa. Check out this website for a number of virtual walk throughs of the Villa: http://www.italyguides.it/us/roma/hadrian_s_villa/hadrian_s_villa.htm
Picture taken from the Blue Guide, Rome (9th Edition) by Somerset Norton

Tavola Uomo (Table Man!)

This afternoon as I was walking home from Palazzo Barberini, I decided to take the less direct, scenic route through the narrow lanes of Trastevere. To my surprise it was not as crowded as it normally is, probably because it was around 4:30, but I was able to observe a very friendly Italian carpenter constructing a table. It was so random and out of the ordinary that I had to stop and stare for a moment. How many times do you witness a man creating an entire table right outside of his small store? It really gave that authentic, “Trasteveric” vibe that I have experienced practically every time I have wandered around the piazza. He did not speak English, but he nodded and smiled at me and then hastily returned to his carving. This was just another day at work for him, but for me it was yet another day of astonishment.

One of the largest and most complete Italian churches is located only about a block south of the Pantheon. When visiting Rome, be sure to stop in for at least a half hour and observe St. Catherine of Siena’s intricate tomb site (located in front of the church’s altar) and one of Michelangelo’s first pieces, The Risen Christ. If you are arriving at Stazione Termini located in the eastern part of center city, follow the directions below to arrive in Piazza Santa Maria sopra Minerva and enter one of the few examples of Gothic architecture in the Eternal City!

From the termini, situate yourself so that you are facing the Piazza dei Cinquecento and walk straight ahead until you reach V. le E. De Nicola onto which you will make the first left.

After about five blocks, make a right onto Via Agostino Depretris and walk until you hit the wide Via Nazionale onto which you will be making a left.

This will bring you into a square which holds the massive Mercati Traianei on your left and look for Via IV Novembre which will curve northward and to the right.

This street will eventually turn into Via C. Battisti, then Via Plebiscito, and finally the wide Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

Before you reach the Area Sacra on your left though near Chiesa del Gesu, one of two Jesuit churches in Rome, make a right onto Via dei Cestari and at the end of this street will stand the church slightly on the right (the Pantheon is down Via Palombella to the left; also, on the left of Chiesa del Gesu is the Palazzo Venezia). In case you are confused, look for Bernini’s obelisk of an elephant which rises to the sky in the middle of the piazza; this church is hard to miss!

Picture taken from: http://www.erboristeriaedaltro.com/camereciprobeb/chiesa%20santa%20maria%20sopra%20minerva%20roma.JPG

The Trek to il Caffe Sant' Eustachio

One of the best cafes in Rome is il Caffé Sant’ Eustachio located next to the church from which it has received its name. If you are visiting the city and you appreciate a delectable cup of espresso or cappuccino, you must visit this bar which has been raved about in newspapers like La Repubblica (written in Italy) and the New York Times (written in the United States). If you are arriving at Stazione Termini located in the eastern part of center city, follow the directions below to arrive in Piazza Sant’ Eustachio and quench your thirst at its eloquent café!

From the termini, situate yourself so that you are facing the Piazza dei Cinquecento and walk straight ahead until you reach V. le E. De Nicola onto which you will make your first left.

After about five blocks, make a right onto Via Agostino Depretris and walk until you hit the wide Via Nazionale onto which you will be making a left.

This will bring you into a square which holds the massive Mercati Traianei on your left and look for Via IV Novembre which will curve northward and to the right.

This street will eventually turn into Via C. Battisti, then Via Plebiscito, and finally the wide Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

After about four blocks with the Area Sacra on your left, make a right onto Via Monterone and you will be standing in the Piazza Caprettari in no time. The Piazza San Eustachio is a straight shot ahead and can be reached in under a minute’s time (the Pantheon lies to the right if you take the Via Palombella).

Look for the clearly marked Café Sant’ Eustachio directly ahead and observe what kind of people are sitting outside. This is typically a formal bar where some of the more prestigious Romans like to drink their morning lattes. Go into the café and order a cappuccino. Take notice that you are never able to see the hands of the baristas as they create your frothy cup because the recipe is kept a secret. The baristas are usually extremely nice and want to make you laugh, so go with the flow and relax. Enjoy one of the best cappuccinos made in Rome!

Picture taken from: http://www.dkimages.com/discover/previews/1422/11376972.JPG

Amsterdam Ambiance

I couldn’t believe my eyes when we walked into a cafe in Amsterdam which looked tiny from the outside but opened up into a beautiful breakfast bar area complete with every type of natural and organic drink you could ever imagine. It was comparable to the Panera restaurant chain in the United States, but with a refreshing twist. There were four girls in their twenties who walked around taking orders and serving all different types of fruit drinks. The breads, bagels, and pastries had all just been baked and sat on the counter piping hot. The smells were fresh and clean and we knew we had to sit down and try their “everything” bagels. Since it is near impossible to find these delightful circular snacks in Rome, we were all eager to dig in. I also ordered an iced coffee and did not expect much since I was not sure how it would be prepared. It came in a large glass, blended to perfection with the right amount of coffee and ice. It wasn’t watery or bitter, and it gave me the boost that I needed after a morning of exploring centre city.

Our bagels arrived promptly and went beyond any pre-conceived expectations that we had formed. They were warm and lightly toasted with the onion on the outside curled into brown half-moons. The sesame and poppy seeds added a subtle background kick, and the natural cream cheese on top united the flavors and completed the bite. Afterward, a hot mint tea was served with fresh sprigs of mint leaves seeping as you sipped. Our bagel obsession had finally been satiated (for a little bit anyways), and we departed the chic café ready to dodge local bike riders on our way to Anne Frank’s annex. Tot ziens!