DO Drink the Water!

As I fill up my water bottle from the random public drinking fountains found all over the city, I often wonder just how clean this aqua actually is. I mean, some of the fountains look filthy, are written on, or have chewing gum on them. So is it really safe to drink the water? After doing some research on this topic, I have observed that many people share my inquiry.

According to an Italian newspaper, La Republica, Roman water is the cleanest and safest in all of Italy! It has also been tested multiple times for contaminants and each test has returned negative. In fact, the watering flowing from the fountains contains a high level of calcium which increases bone density, aids in neurotransmitter release (vital for brain functioning), and is essential for muscle contraction! Without calcium, the human body could not function. So grab those water bottles and fill up on some ancient Rome water – not only is it cold and refreshing, but it also does the body good! Cin Cin!

P.S. Be aware that some of the fountains are marked by a sign which reads, “Aqua non-potabile”. Do NOT drink from these fountains!

Some information obtained at:

http://www.colorshotel.com/rome-guide/food-and-drink-in-rome/

When Visiting Santa Marie in Trastevere, Do Not Miss the Façade!

Although it might seem insignificant and old, take a moment to gaze at the top of the church of Santa Marie in Trastevere before entering. The architecture and art work located above is quite extensive and historic, but I am only going to talk about the façade of this ancient church for now.

The façade was restored in 1702 by Carlo Fontana (the same man who revamped the centrally located fountain). Right in front of the façade stands four Baroque marble statues which represent St. Calixtus, St. Cornelius, St. Julius, and St. Calepodius. The actual façade contains mosaics are most likely medieval, dating back to the 12th century. They tell the story of the parable of the wise and the unwise maidens. The Blessed Virgin Mary stands in the middle, while the maidens surround her. Notice that on the right side the maidens are not wearing crowns. Supposedly, this is because they have let their lamps burn out. The maidens on the left however, still possess their crowns. Only when I stopped to look at the eerie clock which sits on top of the church did I even realize how gorgeous the statues and façade were. I am thankful I did not miss this brilliant piece of art, and I hope if you are in the neighborhood, you do not miss it either!

Top Ten Cafés in Rome: Café Sant’Eustachio

Ever since first hearing that Café Sant’Eustachio apparently served the finest cup of cappuccino in all of Rome, I knew that this bar would have to be one of the stops on my “bar tour”. I then came up with an idea to visit ten of the most famous cafés which were listed in the DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide. I will reflect on each of the ten in my blogs (in no particular order), and then at the end I will rank them (1 – 10) based on my own personal experience at each place.

As I approached Café Sant’Eustachio around 2 PM today, I immediately noticed a difference between this café and the ones I usually frequent in the early morning on my way to school. Café Sant’Eustachio gave off an aura of prestige and tradition. Men and women dressed to the nines sat outside its doors and slowly sipped on their caffé lattes. Important looking priests and men in Armani suits slinked in and out and would occasionally stop to check their expensive wristwatches. I knew this place was out of my league, and I felt awkward entering. I was wearing bright yellow capris which would not stop yelling, “American tourist!” Once I calmed down and was able to take in the entire scene, I ordered the world-famous cappuccino (NY Times articles and other worldly papers were posted on some of the walls) and waited my turn. The baristas were pretty amusing and teased me more than once about my incredible Italian speaking skills.

My cup arrived after about five minutes (which was far longer than the usual 30 seconds it takes in some other bars), and looked delicious. Of course, I could not see how it was prepared because they do not allow you to see what they are doing behind the bar at all. Silver, metal sheets cover their hands and block your view completely – they take their successful recipe very seriously! I added a touch of sugar and after my first sip, I realized that all the hype surrounding Café Sant’Eustachio was legit. The warm drink was perfectly flavored and did not give off the sometimes overpowering, bitter taste of espresso. The milky foam was not excessive, but rather complimented the espresso perfectly. Although the baristas were a bit off the wall, they really knew how to marry each flavor involved in creating a victorious cappuccino. I will be returning at a later time to give the iced coffee a whirl (they actually blend up the ice into a smoothie-like concoction). Until next time, ciao!

Fountaina built by Fontana

In the middle of the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere sits an octagonal fountain which is an ancient Roman original work. It eventually needed repair, so it was restored in the 17^th century by Carlo Fontana. He was initially employed by Bernini and then became an independent artist. Fontana is a masterful Baroque architect who was responsible for many gorgeous and extensive pieces. Some of these works include the church of San Biagio in Campitelli, a facade at San Marcello al Corso which is considered one of his most successful, the Istituto Apostolico San Michele at Ripa Grande (under Pope Innocent the XI’s commission), and the baptismal chapel at St. Peter's. He also designed the Casanate library at Santa Maria sopra Minerva, the church which holds St. Catherine of Siena’s body which lies to the right (if facing the altar) of Michelangelo’s Risen Christ.

His fountain in Trastevere is constantly alive with locals and tourists from early in the morning until late at night. Many sit and socialize, watch magic shows or other entertaining performers, or just simply eat gelato. It is a great place to recharge before work or to unwind at the end of a long day. No matter what time you visit the piazza though, you can always count on the soothing sound of water flowing from Fontana’s fountain to chase away any worry weighing on your mind.

Information obtained using:

http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9034780/Carlo-Fontana

Water Distributed According to Class Rank

In ancient Rome, only the very wealthy were able to have water piped directly into their homes. The lower classes had to rely on public fountain water for drinking, bathing, cleaning, or preparing food. The upper class could afford to have pipes, similar to those which brought water to the public fountains, carry water from the aqueducts directly to their homes. They also built a pool in their domus (house) called an impluvium which collected rain water and sent it down into a cistern. Although the rain water was not used for drinking or preparing food, it was used for household tasks such as cleaning clothes.

The lower (and sometimes middle) class had to rely solely on the public water fountains for their daily water needs. That meant that they would have to walk to a fountain, fill up huge buckets of water, and return home. Obviously, this was not the most convenient or ideal situation, yet they had no other choice unless they chose to hire an Aquarius. This laborer would actually deliver the water from the fountains to the family who paid him.

According to http://www.aquarius.arollo.com/mythology-history, Aquarius was the god of water who showered the earth with water when necessary. Pictures of this god were found on some stones dating back to the ancient Babylonian Empire.

Picture taken from:

http://www.gutenberg.org/files/12254/12254-h/images/illus017.jpg
(modified by CB)

Free Outdoor Seating!

As our class walked back from San Clemente Church on Tuesday, a few of us stopped for paninis and drinks in one of the bars on the way back to the classroom. It was called “Cin Cin’s Bar” (cin cin means “cheers” in English – had I really found a Cheers Bar in Roma?!) and contained many outdoor chairs decorated with coffee bean pictures and the tops of the tables said ‘espresso’, ‘caffe’, and ‘gelato’. I decided this was going to be the next stop on my caffé bar tour, so I went inside and ordered a cappuccino. It came in a very modern mug which said “feel” in red, and I noticed all of the other mugs behind the counter had similar action verbs printed on them as well. This place was definitely trying to appeal to a younger, “hipper” audience and obviously it had worked (haha). I paid right away and then went outside to sit without having to worry about paying extra which was a welcomed change. The cappuccino was not the best I have had thus far, but it was still tasty none the less. I did notice that it had more foamy milk than usual and not nearly as much espresso. Overall, I think I enjoyed the atmosphere and the décor more than the actual drink; it was fun to sit and watch all of the tour-groups hustle towards the Coliseum in the distance.

Talking Fountains make the Pope’s Ears Ring

You heard right – these fountains did not think very highly of the papacy back around the 15^th century, when the pope was not only the religious ruler but also gained the authority of king. Whenever the citizens of Rome disagreed with this pope-king’s decision, which was quite often, they would voice their opinions on sheets of paper. The opinions were then attached to various statues throughout the city; hence the name “talking statues”. Sometimes the opinions were expressed through poetry, and most times the authors were people who were close to the pope and who actually knew the truth.

The first and one of the most famous talking statues, Pasquino, sits near the Piazza Navona in the Piazza di Pasquino. It was used for political and religious reasons, and not surprisingly, it is still used for these purposes in 2008. It is pretty common to catch a note full of gossip or a poem attached to the statue. When Pope Adrianus VI tried to monitor what was placed on Pasquino, more and more talking statues began popping up all over Rome and his problem actually became worse. The “second Pasquino” (as seen above) was a statue of a river-god at the bottom of Capitol Hill. Formally, it was known as Marforio and it frequently held “conversations” with Pasquino. I remember looking at this massive fountain the other day whe

n we visited the Capitol museums as a class, and I had no idea that it was one of the talking statues. It is said to be held inside the Palazzo Nuovo di Campidoglio for preservation purposes, but many believe that it is held there against its will under the close watch of the government. One thing is for sure though, an ancient tradition carried out centuries ago is still being performed in today's world.

Some of this information was taken from:

http://penelope.uchicago.edu/~grout/encyclopaedia_romana/miscellanea/museums/marforio.html

Spremuta – Made to Order

For those of you who do not know what a spremuta d’arancia is, you are missing out on a refreshing orange juice which could potentially compete with your morning caffé for a spot on the bar. The barista makes the drink by simply cutting four to five oranges in half and then uses the juicer to fill a tall glass. Two types of oranges are typically used – either everyday table oranges or blood oranges which contain a reddish interior and are also smaller and less acidic. The blood orange originated from Sicily and can taste somewhat bitter (three main types exist). The juice naturally tastes just like you are eating an orange, but there is no need to worry about swallowing seeds or getting pulp stuck in your teeth. Even though this healthy drink is delicious, it can be a bit pricey. The lowest price I have seen thus far in the city has been €2.50, but in my opinion it is well worth it. Definitely give it a try if you are in need of a change from your morning caffé latte!

For a fun video about how spremuta is made, go to:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3DQ3_BP62k

Oran’t You Glad You Chose Caffé delle Arange?

The other morning I decided to wake up early and visit the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. It was not as crowded as it typically is in the evenings, yet the coffee bars were still bustling about at a decent pace. Instead of grabbing a quick cappuccino at one of these places, I decided to sit down outside of the Caffé delle Arange. On the inside and outside of the small shop, shelves overflowed with oranges and lemons which filled the entire space with an enticing citrusy smell. I ordered a tall glass of orange juice and people-watched until it had arrived. Most people were bee-lining it to their cars or to work I presume, while others chatted calmly and sipped on their lattes. The juice was served in a large glass flute, and when it hit my lips I knew I had made the right choice that morning. I could tell that it was handmade and recently squeezed. It also contained the perfect amount of pulp, and the citrus was not overpowering. If you want the best juice that I have found so far in Rome, visit the Caffé delle Arange for the atmosphere and enjoy the fresh taste of orange while you’re at it!

Not Always a Party for Some

When we first arrived at our apartment building in Trastevere, which used to be a convent, we were immediately surrounded by all different types of graffiti on our building and the walls which lined the street. At first, I was extremely shocked and disappointed by how much vandalism existed all over this gorgeous and historic city. But now that I’ve had about a week and a half to think more about it, I am beginning to realize maybe where these “artists” are coming from. Rome is not exactly the easiest city to live in. In years past, the government was very hypocritical and unjust to many of its lower-class citizens. This may have been the graffiti artists’ way of speaking out and sticking it to “the man”. Even though this is not a practice that I agree with, and it makes me sad to see statues covered in paint, I can maybe for a brief moment see where these anarchists are coming from. If you cannot gain the respect of your own country, and no one seems to be listening to your wants and needs, maybe sending a graffiti message will make you feel better about your situation. Every day life for these people is "No Party". Revenge is not the answer, but it may very well be the reason why graffiti occurs. Think about injustice before you judge these “rebels”.

You Can Thank the Volcanoes for Quenching your Thirst

One does not usually mention volcanoes in the same sentence as Rome, yet after learning more about the water system in the Eternal City, you may just hear me use them together. This is because volcanoes line the edge of the Italian Peninsula (from southern Naples up past northern Tuscany). When active (3,500 years ago), the volcanoes produced plateaus and large craters which became lakes after years of rainfall. These lakes then acted as reservoirs for Roman water supply. The largest one, Lake Bracciano, provides fresh and clean water to numerous aqueducts which then flow through hundreds of fountains throughout the city. So the next time you stop to take a refreshing swig from a drinking fountain on the sidewalk, thank the volcanoes for blowing their top!

The picture above shows the different locations of some of the volcanoes found in Italy. See http://www.crystalinks.com/romevolcanoes.html for more information (also the source of the picture).

Four Cheers for Four Cheeses!

Last week after visiting the Capitol, all of the girls in CAS were heading back to Trastevere to find a place to eat. We perused a few of the ristorantis around the piazza from the outside, but most were a bit out of our lunchtime price range and others were not yet open. Finally we stumbled upon a ristoranti with a raised platform and outdoor seating just a few yards from the fountain. It looked perfect so we happily sat down and began to decide what to order.

The waiters were extremely friendly and helpful, and it was evident that they were local men who cared about their town. The seven of us ordered four pizzas to split: Four Cheese, Salami, Mushroom, and Margarita. In only about fifteen minutes, the four large pies arrived piping hot and we began to chow down. The best one in my opinion was the Four Cheese because it had the slightest hint of Gorgonzola which melted in your mouth towards the end. I would highly recommend it to anyone who is looking for an authentic cheese pizza. Unfortunately, I do not know the actual name of this ristoranti because that was the only word on the menus, but I did take a picture of this sign (pictured above) next to the dining area. The prices were reasonable, the food was tasty, and the atmosphere was picturesque – not to mention the gorgeous Piazza Santa Maria was only a stone’s throw away.

Enjoy Your Caffe Latte, though Prices May Vary

As I entered class this Monday morning, I immediately regretted not stopping in a bar on the way to school for a quick cappuccino. I had a moderate “case of the Mondays”, but soon enough I was back in the routine and was able to cure myself completely of this ailment during our ten minute break half-way through the discussion. Most of us crossed the street and entered a local coffee bar called Dante’s Bar. I wanted to try something other than a cappuccino, so I decided to try the caffé latte. The latte contains about one part milk, one part espresso, while the cappuccino contains more than half espresso. It came in a taller glass and after adding a sugar, the latte tasted very similar to how I typically drink my coffee in America.

After I was finished, I went to the counter and paid the cashier the two euros he requested. I returned to class and before we began, Mike was telling us that usually when you visit the same bar every morning and the employees get to know you, they will give you your drink at a lower price. This seemed a bit peculiar to me, but I found out later just how true this was. About two hours later, a few of us had returned to Dante’s for a quick caffé before watching an Italian movie (Bicycle Thieves by DeSica). When we went to settle up with the cashier, my drink was fifty euro cents cheaper than earlier that morning. I couldn’t believe that the price actually did vary! Moral of the story: get to know your local coffee bar and save!

Fontanella del Facchino

The Fontanella del Facchino does not look like a big deal. In fact, to many bystanders passing by the wall of the Banca di Roma, it merely looks like an ordinary fountain with an eroding man holding a barrel dispensing drinking water. Albeit, the appearance is not provocative, the story behind the fountain is. It was erected around 1590 and depicts a porter which may have been based on a painting by Jacopino del Conte. It is not known who exactly the man is, but it is probably a member of the Fraternity of Water-Carriers (Universita degli Acquaroli). Water carriers quite literally would balance two barrels of water by their sides supported by a wooden beam along their necks. In quite a literal sense then, these carriers are still hard at work even today, providing Romans with clean, refreshing drinking water. I can personally appreciate these drinking fountains since the aforementioned Fontanella del Facchino sits about ten strides from my school, the Sede di Roma.

It is also one of many “talking statues” found throughout the city. They do not actually speak aloud, but rather through the use of paper posted onto the statue which expresses the views of whoever authored the piece. Some more of these “talking statues” will be covered later in the blog so stay tuned!

This page provided the picture of the water carrier: http://74.125.39.104/search?q=cache:9B5TBz811fEJ:www.thebookofdays.com/months/sept/29.htm+fraternity+of+water+carriers&hl=it&ct=clnk&cd=1&gl=it

Italian Cappuccino vesus American Coffee

So what really differentiates an Italian cappuccino from an American coffee? First things first – cappuccino contains espresso, while coffee does not. Espresso is very concentrated liquid made by pushing hot water through powdered grounds of coffee. It is usually a thick, reddish-brown drink which contains about three times the amount of caffeine contained in coffee.

Cappuccino also contains hot milk (called latte) and milk foam (the white topping). Although milk or cream can be added to coffee, it is served black, while cappuccino is always a tannish-white color because of the essential milk and foam. (Italian coffee or “caffe” is regular espresso.)

Therefore, cappuccino contains more caffeine than coffee and has a bolder taste. The espresso is not overpowering though, and thus cappuccino takes on a flavor of its own. For me, it is a toss-up. Before coming to Rome, I enjoyed coffee more than I did cappuccino, yet now that I have been given the authentic brew, I am not sure if I will feel the same way on the plane ride home.

Piazza Santa Maria on a Sunday Evening

My stomach was growling, and I had just finished reading Daisy Miller by Henry James, so I decided to visit Piazza Santa Maria on a peaceful Sunday evening. This stereotype I had held in my mind about the piazza being peaceful and quiet on a Sunday night could not have been further from the truth though. As soon as I left my apartment, I was greeted with the loud buzzing of conversations coming from every direction in the town. Throngs of people flooded the street, some walking their dogs, some deciding where to grab a bite, some overflowing from bars filled to capacity, others gathered around the fountain taking a minute to relax and take it all in. Was this really what a typical Sunday was like in Trastevere? Sign me up. The piazza was packed and at times was hard to navigate. Most of the surrounding ristorantis were alive and well, and most of the dialogue I could understand seemed to center around how the last Roman soccer game of the season went down earlier in the day. This may very well have to become a Sunday routine for me. Enjoy the week ahead – my second in Rome…

I Will Miss the Sex and the City . . .

Even though my excitement and anticipation for traveling to Rome in the past couple of weeks has been almost palpable, there is one tiny thing that has made me a bit sad about it all. Sex and the City, the movie, is finally being released on May 30, 2008. You may laugh, but I have waited for this moment for years and always told my mom we would go see it together the moment it was released into theaters. Unfortunately, I will have to wait until I return from Rome to have this experience. This is not really a huge deal since I will probably end up watching the movie about fifty times when I get back to the States, but I may be a little somber on the 30th. So if you see me on this day, give me a wink and a smile because I could use a little boost :) Haha.. oh and one more thing ... a big thank you to whoever had to put these ads (at right) all over the route I take to school.

My First Roman Cappuccino!

Okay, I must confess to you now that I am in love with coffee. I love how it smells, I love how it tastes, I love how it makes me feel, and I love how I now live in a place famous for its variations of my beloved java. On Wednesday, as my friends and I wondered around Rome, we came across Giolittis, one of the best places to get gelati in Rome. I cannot truly call it a gelateria though because it also serves as a coffee bar, candy store, and ristoranti. I ordered a gelato from the cashier in the front and took my slip back to the intense gelati men standing behind the massive gelati counters. Every flavor you could possibly imagine sits right under your nose with each one silently but adamantly calling your name. I decided to go with the cannella (vanilla), caramel, and nocciola (hazelnut). Here is a tip for any one who has never ordered multiple flavors of gelato: Your second choice will be the one you receive the most of - at least this is what I observed when most of us ordered. It was a fantastic treat, and I highly encourage everyone to get a gelato from Giolittis at least once (although, I guarantee you will be back!).

But, I digress. This blog is actually meant to describe my first cup of cappuccino in Rome. The second time I visited Giolittis was on Friday after we had visited St. Peter's Square, a car show near the Vatican, and a nice stroll next to the Tiber River. We went in and instead of ordering a gelato, I went to the bar and ordered a cappuccino. It was ready in mere seconds and very foamy. I took a sip and surprisingly it was not steaming hot, like the coffee made in America which usually burns my mouth and ruins my sense of taste for the rest of the day. I added a packet of 'Dietor' (aka Splenda in America) because I like that little hint of sweetness at the end. The bar was not terribly crowded at 3 PM like it probably is in the early morning before the workday. The cappuccino was so good and the exact amount I wanted. Sometimes back at home, the servings are too big, and I end up drinking too much caffeine. I finished my cup, thanked the barista (that may just be a Starbucks thing? I'm not sure...), and continued on towards Trastevere with a bit more pep in my step. So far I am one for one in my coffee bar tour... can't wait to see what new flavors and bars lie ahead. Ciao!

The Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere at Night

The moment I heard that the girls in the CAS program at Penn State would be staying in Trastevere, Rome, I immediately 'Googled' it and came across some very exciting information. Trastevere is not just another pretty name. It is in fact one of the oldest cities in Rome and is home to one of the most famous and most visited churches, the Church of San Maria in Trastevere. It is also very authentic and most of the people in the area are locals who do not speak very much English at all (more on that later). The piazza is adjacent to the church and contains a fountain made by Carlo Fontana (go figure) in 1692. Since the piazza is constantly alive with families, students, tourists, pets, and vendors, I thought it would be a great place to sit down and observe its inhabitants at all different times of the day and night.

Last night, my roommate Hilary and I decided to get pizza close-by in Trastevere, which was the perfect opportunity for me to start my careful study of this ancient piazza. We arrived there at about 8 PM after we had purchased some world-famous potato pizza from Pizzarius. The two bakers there had no idea how to speak English, and when my credit card did not scan, we had a heck of a time trying to communicate to each other what exactly was going on. Eventually though, after using some awkward sign language, we were able to figure it out and have a nice laugh, which thankfully translates! As we walked towards the piazza, the crowd density began to increase so we knew that we were close. Then when we saw the fountain and the church in the distance, we knew that we were in the right spot. Most of the ristorantis were at capacity and the entire surrounding area buzzed with the afterthoughts of a normal Roman workday.

The funniest part of our night was when an Indian man began to perform magic tricks in front of the fountain (see photo). I hesitate to give him the title "magician" because his tricks were so awful that they were almost laughable. First, he pulled out a silver pole and after a minute of chanting and twirling, they were magically transformed into a bouquet of yellow flowers (as seen in the picture). His next trick consisted of him waving around a silk cloth which changed colors when he flipped it upside-down. At this point, I was very satisfied with my decision to pick the Piazza Santa Maria as one of my categories. If the rest of the days and nights I spend there are like this one, I will have much to report back on - A Piu Tardi!

Roman Aqueducts - An Overview

It is hard to believe that some of the water in Rome today is still provided by the ancient Roman aqueducts. An aqueduct is a massive, stone structure in the form of many arches stacked on top of one another. It is typically elevated and acts as a channel for water to flow from a remote source to a populated city or industrial site. The aqueducts were built all over the Roman Empire ranging from Germany to as far south as Africa. In the actual city of Rome, there were eleven aqueducts which supplied more than 300 million gallons of water every day! A special thank you to this page, http://www.inforoma.it/feature.php?lookup=aqueduct, where I found most of this information.

First Blog Abroad

It is Wednesday, May 14, 2008, and I am sitting in a Penn State classroom abroad in Rome, Italy. I cannot believe that I have finally made it here, and I plan on making the absolute best of these next seven weeks. I want to make the most of every single day because it is not as if I can visit here every summer (although I will probably try!). With that being said, I want to be able to remember my trip, and by blogging multiple times a week, I can create almost a "virtual souvenir".

The blog will be divided into three main concentrations, but there will be room for random thoughts and experiences that do not necessarily fit into the three specific categories.

My first category is a place which I will visit frequently throughout my stay in Rome. The Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of the oldest in Rome and contains a fountain made by Carlo Fontana in 1692. I will be observing this area at all different times of the day in order to see when it is the most crowded and what the people do during specific times.

My second category is a theme which will focus on the water in Rome, more specifically the ancient aqueducts and how they still provide water for the public drinking fountains.

My third and final category is a theme that I hold near and dear to my heart. Since I love the coffee in America, I will be dropping into coffee bars around the city and trying all different types of java or other types of juices. I will then make comparisons between American and Italian coffees and also between the different caffes found all over Rome. Ciao!

P.S. This is the view from my room in the San Maria Cappella located in Trastevere, Rome.